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Great works of Brazilian modern art remain hidden under our noses in Belo Horizonte
Article published in Portuguese in DestinoGeraes magazine
As I stood in the lobby of the Tribunal de Justiço de Minas Gerais, looking up at the incredible Cavalcanti mural radiating from a wall above me, the people around me, one by one, began to look up and ponder this huge allegorical work, painted by one of Brazil's greatest masters. Scenes of mining activities, the slave trade and images of life in the 18th century...then on the distant horizon: industry, machinery, and vague images of progress.

Although much of Brazil's modern art movement occurred right here in Belo Horizonte, the city has amazingly few museums dedicated to these masters and their works. But the city is without its great works. Here, you'll find plenty of Portinari's, Guignard's, and Cavalcanti's. But instead of hanging on the walls of museums, this city's master works are literally painted on the walls of the city itself, tucked away inside the private buildings and public edifices. You can see them. You just have to know where to look.

Inside the auditorium of the TJMG building is a second Cavalcanti mural, some 130 square meters of color, movement and meaning, a more ominous work than the one in the entrance lobby—a work that looms above the auditorium stage depicting justice with her decisive dagger. In fact, the halls of the TJMG are filled with master works, each one deserving a space in a museum. Start with the great iron staircase in the main entry, brought to Belo Horizonte from Belgium when the Tribunal was constructed. At the top of the staircase is a brilliant stained glass mural of Italian design. There are bronze figurines, huge painted paineis showing Justice in her many classic poses, and a rare portrait of Amilcar de Castro (father of a famous Brazilian artist) painted by Alberto da Veiga Guignard, perhaps Brazil's greatest artist.

Around the time Guignard was invited by JK to head up a fine arts school in Belo Horizonte, the artist painted a series of nine panels in the home of then senador Antonio Barros de Carvalho. The original building was since sold and in its place stands a tall, modern apartment complex, known as the Edificio Guignard. There, guarded inside the modern structure, preserved and protected, the original ceiling remains in place (now probably worth more than the building itself). The nine principal panels, along with nine smaller, side panels make up one of the artist's greatest works—known as Visão de Olinda, and seen by few.

Now, the next time you're walking along Av. Afonso Pena near the Municipal Park, duck into the Othon Palace Hotel and look to the right as you enter. There, above a stairway going down to the hotel's business offices, is a rare and fabulous wall hanging, painted by Burle Marx. Marx, known mostly for his landscape design, was also an accomplished cubist painter. The example in the Othon Palace is every bit as impressive as the works of his contemporaries in Europe. It's not a museum, so don't expect the employees of the hotel to take you on a guided tour. But it's worth a look if you're in the area.

Portinari blessed the city with many murals that still radiate from the walls of various pubic buildings around town. The building of the Secretário de Estado de Governo (Rua Prof. Francisco Brant, off the Praça da Liberdade) for example, is home to a Portinari mural (about 10 x 4 meters) that can be seen from the street outside. It depicts, in mild tones, the city's movement from rural to industrial foundations with symbolic references to the past, present and future. The next time you visit the Praça da Liberdade, walk over and check out this huge Brazilian masterwork.

Want more examples? Walk into the small lobby of the Promenade Guinard Hotel (Av. Tome de Souza and Av. Cristovão Colombo in the Savassi area) and you'll see one of the largest and greatest works of artista Mineiro, Carlos Bracher. The painting, which is about 100 x 200 cm depicts the church-lined hillsides of Ouro Preto, painted almost entirely in tones of red. It is dark, ominous and brilliant, and you can include it in your itinerary as you walk around the Savassi area.

There are many more rooms and corridors in this museum that is the city of Belo Horizonte. I've only just touched the surface. You could say that the works of modern art in Belo Horizonte are so well integrated into the city's day-to-day activities, that they are almost hidden right under our noses. Hidden, but not forgotten.

May 30, 2006

Hidden Treasures in Belo Horizonte

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