I still feel a little weak from what just happened, but I thought I would write and warn you that just because you’re in a harbor doesn’t mean you’re safe. Winds are very light and variable yet the boat next to me swung one way on her anchor and Joanna swung the other way. They hit a couple of times and I went out to fend off the other boat. The last time it didn’t work because I had used that floating poly line on my second anchor and it had got caught up under the other boat’s inboard rudder. I tried unsuccessfully to get it loose with my homemade boat hook. I was glad I bought a diving mask a couple of weeks ago because that looked like my only option. I’m not a strong swimmer, I’ve had a couple of drinks today, and I’ve been smoking cigarettes again so my lung capacity isn’t what it should be… but it looked like and easy dive. My poly anchor rode was all the way out so to make slack I tied another line on to it with what I thought was a sheet bend, or sheep bend, whatever you call it. Anyway, I got in the dinghy and tied it to the other boat and slid into the water. I could tell right away I wasn’t doing real well at holding my breath but I swam around between the boats and got a hold on my anchor line… and discovered I had a hold of the end of it. The knot came apart where I had tied the two lines together. Not wanting to lose my second anchor, I wasn’t about to let go of that line. I got the line free but was getting winded trying to get back to the dinghy. That’s when the line I was hanging onto got wrapped around my feet. I had to consciously tell myself not to panic, take slow deep breaths. I was able to get my legs untangled from the line and get back to the dinghy. That’s it! When I run out of the tobacco I’ve got, I’m going to quit smoking again!

March 2, 2001 11:21 p.m.

I’m stuck here in Marathon waiting for a new prop. The hub started slipping on my propeller and the mechanic won’t re-hub it as these small propeller often break when they are re-hubbed. I’m missing all the good wind.

March 4, 2001 7:08 p.m.

Maybe it’s a good thing I had the propeller trouble. If I had left for Key West this weekend as I had planned, I would have been caught temporarily anchored somewhere around Big Pine key right in the middle of the severe thunderstorm and waterspout watch that was just issued. As it is, I will just be on the edge of the warning area. I’m about to let out a little more scope on the anchor line and ‘button down the hatches’. I might get a chance to see if my lightning arrester works tonight. Nice thought!

9:29 p.m.

The storm is here. Lightning, heavy rain, and winds predicted at 40 knots, but in this protected harbor it doesn’t appear to me the winds have gusted over 30 knots as Joanna is just not bouncing around much. My sleeping bag has some wet spots now. I had all the rags stuffed up into the right places to catch the water blowing through the gaps, and dripping through the two bolts going through the deck that leak. The bag got wet because I wanted to test the two air vents I made out of 3” PVC pipe and fittings. I wanted to see how much wind and rain they could take before the water started coming in. I estimate they did fine bringing in fresh air and no water in the heavy rain up to about 15-20 mph winds. Above that, it came pouring in quick until I capped them on the inside. I think most of the lightning has passed now and I didn’t get to test the lightning ground cables, but that’s OK.

March 5, 2001 7:25 a.m.

This is just not my week for knots I guess. The cold front last night brought in north winds of 20-25 mph and I looked out of the cabin this morning to see the loose halyard that I had tied to my engine lift boom arm flying free out from the stern. It took a few minutes with me hanging off the stern rail but I caught it between the gusts of wind. Whew!

8:33 a.m.

I am just a few feet from that trimaran on my north. When the wind comes out of the north, I get squeezed between it and the houseboat on my South. Apparently the trimaran has a lot more scope on its anchor rode then the houseboat and I try to split the difference on my line so I can stay in between them. I did finally get some 3-strand twisted nylon to replace that poly line that I’ve gotten into trouble with twice now, but I’m not installing it until I pull up anchor to leave.

8:17 p.m.

I’m not only stuck in Marathon, I’m stuck on the boat. With the north winds gusting to 30 mph, I’m not getting in the dinghy. I don’t like getting wet. Tomorrow looks like more of the same. But this has given me a chance to get some work done on the boat. I now have running lights, and two more cabin lights. With all the cabin lights on it’s lit up like a bank in here, but to conserve electricity I usually only use two at a time. Actually I over estimated how much electricity I was going to be using. I’ve got two 55-watt solar panels, a small gas generator and I had thought seriously about getting a wind generator. I’m glad I didn’t. I actually could have got by with one solar panel. I haven’t used the generator. In fact it is just extra trouble to pull it out every month or two just to run it for a few minutes so the fuel won’t stagnate.

March 7, 2001 6:15 p.m.

I left Boot Key Harbor, Marathon, Vaca Key.

9:09 p.m.

I shouldn’t have left the harbor; it’s really rough out here. I figured if I left at sunset, which I did, I could make it to Key West without stopping. Everything in the bow is wet from water splashing through the forward hatch. I can’t maintain the course I planned because that’s where the wind is coming from. So I’m going farther out into the Atlantic. I just put a seasickness patch on and I noticed the directions said to put it on 4 hours before you travel. I was lucky to find some dry long-sleeve shirts to layer up. They were in the bow. I had to go to the foredeck and retrieve the anchor line and chain that got washed off by the waves crashing over the deck. I got soaked. I’m feeling kind of seasick. There is a big pile of stuff on the cabin sole. When the radio fell… all the batteries came out, and when the toolbox fell… the lid came open. It’s all a mess. Tomorrow is supposed to be calmer so it should be easing up. I didn’t think it would be like this out here. I tried tacking but that headed me straight back toward the Keys and I didn’t want to run into anything, so I tacked back. The jib sheet is creaking like a tree limb where it goes through the fairing. The sheet is really tight. It’s a good thing it’s dark. I can see the breaking waves in the moonlight but I can’t see how big they are.

N24^o 37.74’ W81^o 11.77’

Tracking between 150-230^o, the auto-helm can’t keep it steady. I’m fighting back the nausea.

11:01 p.m.

It’s eased up a lot. Don’t see many white caps now. I just shook out the second reef. What a job that was. I fell and hit my jaw on the companionway hatch but all I got was a headache. She should point better now. She’s really out of balance with the second reef.

11:49 p.m.

I just shook out the first reef so now I’m riding under full main and working jib. That’s why I left when I did, because I knew the wind was going to die and I wanted to get there before it did. I also tacked back toward the Keys so I’m headed straight for Bahia Honda Key. The wind is supposed to veer to the north as it lessens, so after the next tack maybe I can stay on course. I threw the patch away.

March 8, 2001 12:23 a.m.

I had to tack as I was coming up on a reef. I’m headed back to my course line, almost.

2:02 a.m.

I guess I need to get a new alarm clock. I set it to wake me up at 1:30 a.m. and I just woke up and found myself passing less than a half a mile from Big Pine Shoal. I’m watching the flashing light just aft of my port beam. I sure needed that nap though, I feel much refreshed. I was able to add a few degrees to the auto-helm – whoops, maybe not – the sails just lufted and I’m down to 2 knots. I was hoping to get out of this area marked on the chart as a ‘prohibited area’ and get closer to my desired course without tacking. The less moving around I do the less chance there is to slip in the wet cockpit and get hurt.

I might not have left Boot Key Harbor last night but I was stuck in this cabin at anchor for two days and three nights when the cold front came in. I ran out of tobacco and ate so many peanuts and dried bananas that I got sick, so when the wind let up enough to take the dinghy into shore, I got my new propeller, some tobacco, and I couldn’t wait to get moving again.

3:38 a.m.

The moon is in front of me now and it’s lighting my way with a glimmering silvery path. It’s really quite beautiful. I’m out of the prohibited area and expect to intersect my planned route within the hour. I’ve passed Big Pine Key and can see the lights from Ramrod Key, Summerland key, and Dudjoe Key off the starboard beam. Life doesn’t get any better than this.

4:21 a.m.

I’ve intersected my planned route, allowed her to fall off the wind 10^o, and eased the sheets a little. As an added bonus, I found an apple in the pile of stuff on the cabin sole. It should be easy from her on out.

6:48 a.m.

I was able to find my other alarm clock so I got another hours worth of sleep and woke to see the sunrise and ease the sheets as the wind has lightened to 10 mph or so, and veered back behind from the northeast. I welcome the sun’s warmth, as I’ve been cold ever since I got wet last night even though it hasn’t dipped much below 65^o.

7:23 a.m.

Oops, I’ve got to start keeping a better watch. I just passed within 300 yards of a marker that I was suppose to be 3/10 of a mile from. I could have run right into it!

7:45 a.m.

I had to drop the main as it was blanketing the jib in this light following sea, then Mr. Auto-helm ‘dropped the ball’. I’ve got him tied to the tiller now so he can’t leave his responsibility. Maybe after breakfast I’ll put up the Genoa, but I’m to hungry right now and I’ve got this mess to clean up before I can cook.

9:36 a.m.

With the smooth sailing and even keel I was able to clean up the mess and cook breakfast. Only there wasn’t much I could do with all the wet clothes I yanked out of the bow looking for something dry to wear except pack them back up into the bow. Fortunately the water didn’t make it to the cabin sole where my tools had been dumped. The cushions soaked up most of the water and everything in the bow that could be ruined by water was in watertight containers. The irony of all this is that last trip into Marathon, when I picked up some weather-stripping for that hatch. I was gung ho to go and didn’t think I would need it for this trip.

That fly had been with me for over a week. He thought this was the only island in the world I guess. He wouldn’t leave on his own and I couldn’t run him off. But he was kind of slow this morning, and now that I’ve sent him home to Jesus I think I’m going to miss him.

March 8, 2001 2:23 p.m. – Arrived Key West, Wisteria Island

N24^o 33.92’ W81^o 48.58’

I’m here at Key West. I can’t believe people anchor over here off Wisteria Island, or that the cruising guide would even suggest it. Wakes and waves come through here from the cruise ships and the powerboats that speed right in between the anchored boats. If I can’t find a better spot than this within a couple of days, I’ll just sail out of here. I don’t even think it’s safe to cook!

8:52 p.m.

I’m sick. I had started coming down with a cold when I left Marathon, and between the lack of sleep and getting cold and wet it’s got me now. I haven’t been into shore yet, and the way I feel I don’t care to. I did plan tomorrow’s route however. I plan to go north around Fleming Key and come into the North of Key West between Dredger key and Fleming Key in search of better anchorage. I want to leave early at high tide in case that was the cause of the current I had to fight the last mile and a half in the channel between Tank Island and Key West. Full throttle with the 7-1/2 horsepower Merc netted me only one knot. It was rough between the current and wakes from all the large craft. It was a long mile and a half, and Mr. Auto-helm couldn’t handle the turbulence, so I had to fight it alone.

March 9, 2001 9:11 a.m. – Arrived Dredger Key Mooring Field

N24^o 34.52’ W81^o 47.56’

I just picked up a numbered buoy between Dredger Key, Fleming Key, and Key West. Took me two tries, I need to get a real boat hook. This looks like a much better anchorage although it’s not well protected from the North. I wonder who owns these buoys and if there is a charge for using them? I’ll have to investigate. I was right about the current caused by the tide. Whereas yesterday I could only do one knot in the channel, today with the opposite tide I did over five knots with a head wind.

March 11, 2001 9:35 p.m.

The buoys are owned by the city and there is no charge. Reciprocal privileges didn’t get me a shower at the Key West Yacht Club, but the dock master was helpful to give me advice and point me to other options. The city has dinghy docks and showers. Single shower was $4 and $100 key deposit but the dock master was kind enough to let me get by with $75 key deposit, as that was all I had on me at the time. I haven’t been using the city dinghy dock as it’s a long way back around to the West. I’ve been taking the dinghy into Garrison Bight and locking up to a eyehook in the concrete breaker next to Hwy 1, and pulling myself up the embankment. There are three of us who have claimed eyehooks. There is also what is called the Burger King Marina. No affiliation with Burger King but it is some land and trees that has built up on the same breaker across from Burger King where I tie up. It didn’t look real secure so I didn’t want to leave my new inflatable there. Well… it’s starting to look not quite so new.

I’m wondering if it was current caused by tide that gave me such rough water when I left Marathon last week. That was outside the Seven Mile Bridge where I had it so rough.

March 18, 2001 9:43 p.m. – Key West

I got my damaged prop re-hubbed here for a spare. It only cost $30. The guy in Marathon re-hubs for $60, but he wouldn’t do it claiming the small props often break and I had to buy a new one for over $100. I think the difference is competition. The guy in Marathon was the only one on the island that worked on props. Not so here in Key West where two places compete for business on Stock Island.

I have another fly friend, but I’m not going to kill this one. Sometimes I get kind of lonely. He’s not much company, but a sailor has to make do with what’s available.

March 20, 2001 2:42 p.m.

I just discovered that the cord on the tiller tamer has chafed all the way through and broke. I better buy twice as much as I need so I’ll have a spare as it didn’t last long. I guess I could re-set it once a month so it won’t wear in the same spot.

March 21, 2001 4:19 p.m. – Key West to Marathon, Vaca Key

My son Eric caught a ride down to Key West and is now sailing with me back to Marathon. We left Key West at 1:30 this afternoon and are now sailing on a run with following seas up the Atlantic side. Winds are 20 mph and gusty. This has been an uncomfortable point of sail as up until a half hour ago we couldn’t sail our course as the jib couldn’t decide which tack to fill from. We had the second reef in the main and in desperation tried sailing wing and wing but wallowing as she was with the heavy following seas she accidentally jibed so we took the main down and are now running with working jib alone. I sure need a whisker pole. I’m concerned that at our present speed of 3.5 to 4 knots we might get to Marathon before daylight.

6:23 p.m.

Eric just opened a can of spaghetti and meatballs to heat up, but soon as he opened the can and smelled it he got a little queasy again. I sent him to the cockpit and I heated it up for him. I just handed it out to him and he seems to be getting it down OK. We are just passing Sugarloaf Key about 3 nm out. N24^o 33.480’ W81^o 33.628’.

The last couple of hours have been real nice sailing. The wind has veered from directly aft. Also the water smoothed a bit but now the sun is getting low and the wind is picking back up. We decided to anchor in the dark on the windward shore of Boot Key to wait out morning light as it looks certain we will arrive before sunrise.

7:57 p.m.

It’s dark now and we have no red/green at the bow. I figured a new route first, as that was more important but now it’s time to crawl out on the bow to change the light. It’s nice having someone with me; it makes the nasty jobs easier to bear.

8:54 p.m.

Changing the bulb went quite easy with someone to hold the little screws and lens cap. But afterwards my son was digging for some canned goods in that hole I cut in the porta potty area sole and found moisture. I got into the battery compartment to see if the keel bolt was leaking again and I found the problem. I wish it would have been the keel bolt. It was the top bolt where the bracket that bolts into the bulkhead also bolts into the trunk where the keel retracts. That bolt and bracket is taking quite a beating as the slop in the keel hits back and forth as Joanna wallows in the waves from astern. If we were on a reach, the keel would stay tight. The whole bulkhead shakes when the keel slams back and forth. To stop some of the movement, I hammered a wooden wedge between the hull and the bulkhead. I’ll have to do something more permanent in harbor.

Spray just came in the hatch and got my chart wet.

10:37 p.m.

I just got a little sleep, which wasn’t easy with the keel jarring back and forth. I wonder if it would help by putting the bolt in that locks the keel in the down position?

We are only nine miles from Boot Key and I welcome the familiar antenna towers in Marathon.

11:32 p.m.

I just heated up a can of spinach. I didn’t realize until I was half way through eating it, that the bucket my son left the rinsed out pan in was the empty gray water bucket! It’s a good thing he is asleep.

March 22, 2001 12:30 a.m.

It’s really getting rough now. It must be the Seven Mile Bridge. Same place I had trouble leaving Marathon. Only this time we are running before it instead of beating into it. I will sure be glad to get behind the protection of Boot Key.

1:38 a.m.

We’re safe. Perfect night navigation. Not the best anchorage, but it will do until daylight. I don’t know why I keep doing this, but I will probably sail again. N24^o 40.984’ W81^o 05.859’

11:23 p.m.

At daybreak this morning we motored from anchor off the South shore of Boot Key into Boot Key Harbor, Marathon, Vaca Key.

I slept on shore this week for the first time since I launched last year before Christmas. I slept in the van my son and his friend drove down her in. I didn’t want to take the dinghy back to Joanna in the dark across the choppy waters off Key West. It felt strange to spend the night outside Joanna’s womb.

I was going to go to the Bahamas, but after the trip to Key West, and the trip back, I’ll probably wait for a very mild day, get back to the bay side and never leave protected waters again!

I gave my son the gasoline generator as the solar panels are enough and I could use the space.

My fly friend is missing. He must have jumped ship before leaving Key West. Probably a wise decision.

March 26, 2001 7:18 p.m. – Marathon, Vaca Key

I was on my bike last night and was hit by a car. It knocked me off the bike but I was able to stay on my feet getting only a sprained thumb. The bike wasn’t so lucky. It got run over, smashing the derailer and warping the rear wheel. I walked over 10 miles today, part of which was pushing the bike to the only bicycle repair shop at the far northeast end of the island near the bridge to Fat Deer Key. I’ve never walked that far before in on day in my entire life and I’m not sure I’ll be able to walk at all tomorrow.

March 27, 2001 12:23 p.m.

I just unplugged the solar panel. Even after sailing through the night with the auto-helm, depth gauge, runninb lights, and cabin lights, it’s only take a few days to top the batteries off to the point of overcharging with one 55-watt panel. I could have saved the money and not bought the second one. The two batteries have enough reserve to sail for four nights without charging.

Everything outside of the cabin has salt all over it… salt crystals, salt dust, and salt stains. Joanna could sure use another good rain.

March 28, 2001 10:58 p.m.

I can’t walk much farther than to the bathroom at the marina. I must have torn up the ligaments/tendons in my ankles and feet when I walked that 10+ miles the other day. I don’t know how long it will take to heal enough to walk the 3.5 miles to get my bike.

Continue to Chapter Four

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